Neck Deep in the Ciliwung

My first mentor J.R. Moehringer once described a reporter, the paper's Delhi bureau chief, he figured must have been the most long-suffering journalist at the L.A. Times. "He's neck deep in the Ganges," said J.R., reeling off  trials he had endured most involving cholera and cows. I thought this sounded ideal and he figured I would end up like him. We were right.